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Rock Climbing > Saturday, March-24-2007

Bouldering in Boquer Valley, Puerto Pollensa

 

John pulling hard on a Boquer sloper.

Boquer Valley is a wild, boulder strewn valley just on the outskirts of Puerto Pollensa. Overlooked by the Caval Bernat ridge (a classic Mallorca scramble), with an easy trail leading down to an unspoilt Cala it is the perfect spot to spend some free time.

Despite the fact there are some  classic bolted routes and huge potential for new developement, roped climbing has forbidden in Boquer Valley for some years now. However there is hope, local climbers are now pushing the limits  here, projecting some of (arguably) the islands best and hardest boulder problems. 

Local boy "Lechuga" on a high, thin  6B/ B+ problem on boulder Nš 4.

The potential in the valley for new routes / problems is enormous, add to this easy access (5 minutes walk from the town center) and you have the perfect place for the boulderer.

To give climbers something to go on the rest of this blog consits of topos and directions to some of "Boquers" most accessible blocks and the problems on them.

Mail me if you want to grade them or have any more ideas.

As always, john@rocksportmallorca.com

Have fun.

 

 

The boulders highlighted in this section are in no special order and grades, when given, are sport grades because we realy haven't got a clue.  There's no names either! Best bet is to have a go yourself and see what you think. Mail me with grade you feel appropriate. Apart from Nš 1 they are all fairly high, 3 meters or more, so bring a good mat and someone to spot.

Boquer Boulder Nš 1

Go past the main house and up the path between the two enormous boulders.  Cut off to the left just as you pass the boulder and you will see a small stone wall and flat grassy section. 10 meters to the left behind the main wall / crag is boulder Nš1 and immediately to the right boulder Nš2

Boulder Nš1 with two sit starts. A involves pulling on the slopers and a quick dyno up to a hold at the top, B is an extension involving heel hooking over the lip to join A. Grades around 5 / 6a sport.

Boquer Boulder Nš 2

Directions to Boulder Nš 2 are above with Nš1. Basically a slab with small crimps, the routes shown are not exact and climbers tend to do what they can. The two most popular shown here (more or less) are straight up to the top or traverse from one side to the other. Its fairly high but has a good flat landing area if you come off. Grades here are probably around 6b / c sport.

Boquer Boulder Nš 3

This one is very easy to find. Follow the path as before between the big rocks and keep going (on the path) for about 20 meters. You will see Boulder Nš 3 right by the bath with a grassy area in front.

Boulder Nš 3 consists of a large, high slab face and a steeply overhanging section to the left. Routes A & B are rough guides, most climbers just work on what they feel comfortable with and you will see chalk marks all over the face. Route C is a high traverse using the obvious sloping crack for feet and small vertical crimps for hands until you can reach (dyno?) across to the jugs. Route D is a lower traverse across the overhanging roof section, (see image bellow for more detail). this can also be started on main face working hands along the lower horizontal crack then swinging under the roof.

Routes E & F are sit starts that go up and over the roof to finish on a ledge at the end of the red line. For a rough guide the grades for the slab face vary between 5 & 6a and the roof sections 6b to 6c sport grades (maybe!!!) Scramble down the right side from the top when (if) you get there.

Boquer Boulder Nš 4

This boulder is about 30 meters behind and to the left of boulder Nš 3. Follow the goat trail up through some low scrub from the left (overhang) side of Boulder Nš 3. You will soon see where it is, it's big enough. Also there are 2 or 3 old bolts on the face.

Routes A & D are traverses following the same line but starting at opposite ends. Follow the obvious line of horizontal pockets and the small ledge. Harder Than it looks.  The vertical route A uses layback moves on the left edge of the boulder to reach some big jugs at the top. Routes B & C follow obvious lines on small cracks and sharp crystals.  I would suggest grades to be about 5 for A vertical and 6b to 6c+ for the rest. There is some easier stuff, both traverse and vertical to the right. Scramble down the back when you are done.

Boquer Boulder Nš 5

To find this boulder simply cut off the main path to the right just past where you go between the two large blocks. More or less opposite where you go left for boulders 1 & 2. There is a clearly visible goat track through some scrub, follow this for about 20 meters and you will see the boulder up on the right.

Routes A & B are sit starts working up throug a steep roof section, then onto a slabby section of small (very) crimps to reach the top. Route B is a shorter / easier version of route A using only the larger jugs & pockets on the overhang. Routes C & D are roughly where they should be. Work on tiny crimps and pockets with some reachy moves to traverse and join up with the other routes. I have not heard that anyone has made the link yet.... Grades, A & B probably 6b / c, C & D somewhere above the 8a region.

Thats the lot so far, I will add more as I hear about them. Let me know what you think.

John.


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